Boat Baths - Choosing and Gelling Your Bathroom

Just what Boat Bath
A speed boat bath can be a traditional bath without feet which goes straight down towards the floor or more usually stands on the plinth that is certainly either glued or bolted on the main the main bath. A boat bath have a plug and overflow during the bathtub lengthwise making it a dual ended bath, occasionally boat baths have a plug hole that's and in the middle of the bathtub widthways however this is less usual. Boat baths usually stand up slightly at either side from the bath and have a good edge that curves downwards towards the middle (lengthwise). Boat baths are usually roll top baths, which means that the extra edge from the bath includes a profile that approximates to some section from your circumference of the circle. Bateau baths can be a type of boat bath containing bath feet rather than plinth.

Boat Bath Construction Types
Most contemporarily manufactured boat baths are among four main construction types: Cast Iron, Stone Cast Resin, Fibreglass and Acrylic Sheeting. You can find bad and the good quality baths in every of those kinds of construction. Cast Iron contains the benefit from sticking to the regular construction materials you might need what you need but is heavy, a as a result of floor surefire boat bath may well weigh about 200-250kgs. Stone Cast Baths are lighter but nevertheless heavy, 100-150 kgs, these are very rigid but other than this have no real advantages on the high quality acrylic or fibreglass bath, stone cast baths are made of a mixture of powdered mineral and several kind of resin which may the truth is be acrylic hence the the top these baths is frequently not different as people imagine from the the top a polymer bath. Fibreglass baths have a very resin and glass fibre body, similar to some car bodies which is then coated with the acrylic gel to offer and acrylic surface. Baths constructed this way are often more rigid than equivalent acrylic sheet baths but they are still light (40-60kgs). Acrylic sheet baths if sufficiently reinforced can match the rigidity and quality of fibreglass and gel coat baths but not large expanses of acrylic sheeting might be more flexible than fibreglass equivalents.

Fitting Taps in your Boat Bath
Boat bath are generally roll top baths and therefore cannot have taps installed on the edge with the bath unless they've got a tap platform. A tap platform is surely an area on the fringe of the bathtub that flattens out to ensure that tap holes can be drilled within the bath and taps attached to its edge. Because boat baths are always double ended baths the tap platform if there is the first is invariably in the heart of the tub higher than the overflow. Its keep is not any tap platform you will must fit either attached to the wall or floor mounted taps. Floor mounted taps will probably be installed on stand pipes, stand pipes cover the pipes carrying water towards the taps usually with chromed piping and are robust enough to compliment the load in the taps. Stand pipes stand it contrast to pipe shrouds (also known as bath legs, however, not to become wrongly identified as legs that support the bath, they're entirely different). Pipe shrouds are employed when taps are attached to the advantage of the bath and so are that will offer an decorative cover on the water feeds however, not to compliment the load with the taps. Pipe shrouds are often designed so they are extendable and will fit on baths of an various heights. Boat baths come in general relatively high, and if you're fitting pipe shrouds or standing your taps on stand pipes you can even examine that they will be of sufficient height for your bath. Generally speaking for standpipes you need to make an effort to use standpipes that are as high or more as opposed to part of the bath by which they're going to stand. Usually this can mean using 700mm standpipes. It's also wise to be careful if fitting taps on standpipes in order that the reach of the spout will probably be sufficient to overcome the roll top regarding the bathtub. If uncertain both with height and reach try to find cranked leg taps, a cranked leg tap features a wiggle within the leg that both pushes the faucet higher up and further forward giving both extra height and reach.

Picking a Waste Kit on your Boat Bath
Because boat baths are usually considered a normal kind of bath these are generally fitted using a traditional plug and chain waste kit. Usually pop-up or click-clack wastes may also be fitted but to assist issues to do with some pop-up and click-clack wastes the inability to fit on baths beyond a specific thickness and you will look at the thickness in the bath at the overflow and the plug hole along with the maximum thickness the waste kit you are considering will accommodate, it really is less usual to get this issue with chain wastes however the best advice is usually to source the bath and waste kit from the same supplier who should then accept responsibility for compatibility. Even be conscious of fitting waste/filler combinations that fill from your overflow might have there own issues especially with regards to the height and width of the filler the main waste outside the bathtub which in extreme cases could be too wide and also to fit without clashing using the roll from the side of the bath.

Exposed and Concealed Waste Kits
The primary parts of the waste kit include the plug and overflow parts which might be visible within the bath, the overflow pipe and associated fittings outside the bath as well as the trap and waste pipe which might be underneath the bath. Usually only the overflow pipe and associated fittings is going to be visible since the trap and outlet waste pipe will likely be hidden inside the boat baths plinth. In fact if your bath will be installed against a wall then no plumbing external on the bath will probably be visible and you'll work with a concealed waste kit, this is a waste kit where those external parts are plastic. However if your bath is away from the wall you'll need an exposed overflow pipe, that's one that is expected to be observed and is therefore decorative, usually chrome, however the trap and waste pipe might be plastic as they are usually hidden beneath the bath. There are two exceptions to think about about these general scenarios, firstly set up bath is against a wall the overflow pipe may be visible, particularly if the bath is against a protracted wall so you could stand along with your shoulder from the same wall and appearance down relating to the bath as well as the wall, this is a judgment you need to make. Secondly even though the trap under the bath will not normally be visible you will probably find when the clearance under the bath is 120mm or fewer the only trap you'll find that may fit will likely be an exposed, i.e. chrome, trap that has been specifically designed for that freestanding bath market.

Extended Overflow Pipes
All boat baths are double ended, which is, the plug hole and overflow have been in the center of the bathtub lengthwise. In most cases the plug hole although central lengthwise is going to be over on the back in the bath width wise, yet, in a few cases the plug hole might be seen to be within the dead core bath, that is central both lengthwise and widthwise. If this sounds like the situation you will probably find that the standard sized overflow pipe is not going to reach far enough under the bath to join up to together with the waste pipe that extends below the plug hole. In the event such as this you simply must fit an overflow extension pipe, such extensions connect to the overflow pipe with a compression fitting, that is certainly, they just push on and are sealed by the rubber gasket already fitted on the extension. You will have to source this from the specialist in freestanding baths.

Positioning of the Waste Pipe
When the clearance through your boat bath is unquestionably that you have to use an extra shallow trap then you'll discover that the waste pipe that connect with the trap will probably be at roughly exactly the same height because overflow pipe and you will probably be unable to lead the waste pipe out the in an identical way because overflow pipe is available in while they may wish to occupy the identical space. Normally, this is not a problem because the trap will hook up to the waste pipe from the plug hole with a captive nut that permits the trap to be positioned popping out at any angle in order that it could be positioned such that the outlet waste pipe won't hinder the overflow pipe. Having said that your plumber must be informed about this possible ways to make certain that no jobs are done laying underfloor waste pipes that can't connect track of the opening waste pipe from the trap

Fixing your bath towards the floor
Make sure you fix your bath firmly for the floor, the most usual technique of doing this is using a boat bath is always to glue the baths plinth towards the floor using silicon resin or perhaps a proprietary product for example Unibond's Forget about Nails. If you feel you may need to slowly move the bath just place a six inch bead than it each and every end to ensure as appropriate you'll be able to cut through it and move the bath, if fat loss likely the bath won't be moved place a bead all over the bottom of the bath.

Special Considerations for Antique Boat Baths
You will find special considerations if the bath can be an antique, particularly the plug hole and/or overflow hole could be greater than within a contemporary bath which may signify the conventional fittings that suit to the within the bath will likely be too small so they drop straight from the hole. Aside from salvaging antique waste kits (which aren't guaranteed to fit anyway) or having parts remanufactured there could 't be an easy answer. Generally speaking the best advice is to avoid baths which have outsized plug or overflow holes.